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And Our Wild Adventures Come to an End...
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| And Our Wild Adventures Come to an End... |
| 06.20.04 (6:50 am) [edit] |
Well, Justice and I have returned from a brutal, eight- day tour of Southern Africa, spanning four countries and over a thousand miles (traversed mostly in run- down busses).
 After you last heard from us, we hitch- hiked across Swaziland and up the coast of Mozambique. After a few days lounging on the beach and eating lobster meals for less than you all pay for a Big Mac, we broke West towards the Zimbabwe border. I managed to squeeze in one solid day of shooting along the way, grabbing some great footage in the rural areas of a country that is as depressing as it is beautiful.
We arrived at el frontier with only enough money for a single entry visa - my bank card doesn't work in Mozambique, so Justice's account had been extinguished during the previous few days. The plan was for me to go into the nearby city after crossing the border and withdraw enough for Justice's visa, but we discovered Zimbabwe Immigration won't accept their own money - one more sign of the Government's inflation- driven desperation for foreign currency.
Banks are not allowed exchange money, so I ended up having to spend five or six hours searching out black- market currency dealers in hopes of buying South African rand (the illegal market is so strong because of the profit made from selling Zimbabwe Dollars, but it makes buying other currencies extremely difficult). I was successful in the end, but it is not an endeavor that I would like to repeat. Luckily Zimbabwe customs checked the one bag of ours that didn't have any camera equipment in it, which avoided one potential hassle and a possible arrest...
We made our way down to the country's second- largest city, Bulawayo, the following day. That was when the trip really started to get interesting... A friend of ours from New York was visiting family and our plan was to meet up with her at some point. More monetary issues (the city's ATMs were all out of order) forced us to scrounge together our last few thousand Zim dollars in order to call her, in hopes she could help us work things out.
In a stroke of luck, she was just across the street with her aunt. They were on their way to see an Inyanga, a traditional shaman, and they invited us to come along. Now, I am your run- of- the mill agnostic/atheist who is pretty opposed to most organized forms of modern religion. Nevertheless, this was the most intensely spiritual experience of my entire life.
The ritual involved traditional music and the consumption of a brownish- black powder (by the Inyaga). She would then place a gourd- rattle to hear ear and 'speak' with each of our ancestors in a language which is not practiced under any other circumstances.
I'm not sure of exactly what took place, but I know that the things this woman told me came from someone or something with a very deep understanding of my life - it was literally as if I was watching her communicate with a higher power over a cell phone. Between the three of us, every word she said hit right on the head- of- the- nail. Fortunately, we were able to film the entire experience, and I will hold onto that footage for my entire life.
We were later invited to stay with the family that had brought us to the Inyaga. They had a long history in the Zimbabwe government, with our host having once been invited to be Zimbabwe's ambassador to the UN. The late grandfather Joshua Nkomo, or 'Father Zimbabwe', was former Vice- President of the country, and together they have led the minority ethnic group (which has been violently oppressed by the ruling government) for many years. The family holds great respect among the country's people - just last week, Nkomo was honored by an event they hosted that was attended by the infamous President Mugabe himself.
After a day trip out to one of the national parks yesterday, we caught a bus for the overnight trip back to Jo'burg. Justice and I are now settling down for four days of insanity before Thursday, when we catch our respective flights back to the USofA...
DL Fitch
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posted by: misskendy (reply)
post date: 06.20.04 (8:57 am)
WOW what an incredible experience! I have been so priviledged to take this journey with you. Thank you for including us!
posted by: dlfitch (reply)
post date: 06.20.04 (9:30 am)
Reply to: misskendy
The privilege was all mine. Thanks for coming along...
posted by: youyoumomma (reply)
post date: 06.21.04 (10:46 pm)
oh my god! as they say..you two are incredible. How fortunate for you to have been selected for this mission!! You have memories for a lifetime. I want to hear all about the Inyaga's stories...i ccan;t wait to see that film someday. Will I have to come to NY? Luke, I am sirry you are not omcing out here for the tour. I can;t wait to meet you Someday!
Don't forget your toothbrushes! ;)
Safe travels, I shall light a candle which will burn until you reach the safety of your homes!
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